![]() You don’t want this to be thick! Some people coat the back, too. Pros can do this in one pull- but with homemade screens I usually have to do this a few times to get the screen evenly coated. ![]() Pull your squeegee upwards while exherting pressure against the screen. Touch the edge of the squeegee to the bottom of the screen and change the angle of the squeegee upwards so that the emulsion all slides to the screen’s surface. ![]() In your other hand, hold the screen vertically. It an almost black environment (I had the lights on in another room while I was in the kitchen at night), generously spoon the emulsion all along the edge of the squeegee, careful to hold your squeegee horizontally, but at a 40 degree angle from the sink so it doesn’t fall off. You will store it in the fridge after pulling your screen. Mix the photo Emulsion and Primer really well and write the date on the bottle so you will know when it will expire. The tauter/tighter your screen- the better it works. I suggest starting on one side, then do the opposite side, then do the top and bottom, starting always in the middle, pulling the screen super tight every time. With a helpful friend, staple the silk to your empty frame. Old silk curtains from thrift store, preferably with a very fine mesh Speedball Photo Emulsion, plus primer, usually sold in a kit, and Speedball Fabric Ink Picture frame minus picture- but with glass, from thrift store )īlack and white design printed onto Acetate (overhead projector I did an alternate shirt for people who didn’t think the horse thing was funny. (Our family roots are Scottish and we were apparently horse thieves, so our shirt has our Scottish Clan crest with a horse head on top for good humor, and three stripes of the tartan colors below. However, I learned a lot that I wish I had read on a blog somewhere, so I wanted to share my process. While it was a lot of work- I don’t regret a moment of it. I thought it would be more memorable, more important, more infused with family-ness if I printed all 20 T-shirts myself. When you’re all set up, turn on the Speedball UV Light and set a timer for your chosen exposure time.At our family reunion this summer there was only one thing I was absolutely adamant about, and that was the T-shirts. Remember to dry your photo emulsion in complete darkness and only bring the coated screen out when you’re ready to expose. If the screen is exposed to too much light before you’re ready, your image may not expose properly. We chose to do this process in subdued lighting which gives us a little more time to set up. Place a sheet of glass or perspex on top, to hold the film in place. Once it’s placed, the design should me a mirror image when you look at it from above. The drawn (or inkjet printed) side of the artwork should be down against the mesh. The mesh should be raised above the table. For more help on coating your screen, see this blog post. Place your coated, dried screen on a flat surface, frame side down. Our artwork was Inkjet Screen Film drawn with Zig Opaque Pens and Jacquard Film Markers. We used an A4 43T screen coated with a single layer of Speedball Photo Emulsion and Sensitiser. This was perfect for our setup, but will vary slightly depending on your method and materials used, so you are likely to need to experiment with a few times and distances when you begin. To expose an A4 screen, we suspended the light 16 inches away from the screen for 8 minutes.
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